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One of Africa’s most stylish cities and a world away from the formulaic streets of Europe. ‘What’s Marrakech got to offer?’. Well, everything is the answer. From the chicest small hotels (riads) in the world to fabulous food and glamorous bars, from rose-petal strewn beds to a way of life unchanged in a millenia and, of course, don’t forget the shopping. How long should you stay?

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The recommendation is to stay for a long weekend in Marrakech, much longer you might get a little bored – if you’ve got a week to kill head out into the High Atlas and climb Jebel Toubkal (the highest mountain in North Africa). If the mountains aren’t your cup of tea, hire a car and head down the coast to Essaouira and enjoy some sunshine at the beach or head inland to the edge of the Sahara Desert and visit some very dry little towns. When should you go? Avoid the summer at all costs, unless feeling like a roast chicken is really your thing. Spring and autumn are the best times to go – the temperature’s idyllic and unlike the UK or the US there’s very little chance of rain. Christmas can be a little cold – but there’s always something about a log fire that gets our pulses racing.

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It’s here, within the dense, claustrophobic atmosphere of the Old City, enclosed by its ancient walls, that the majority of visitors to Marrakech spend their time. Here, the magic and mystery of traditional Moroccan life reveal themselves in everyday hustle and bustle. The endless parade of street traders, cart-pulling donkeys, sweating artisans, blind beggars, playful children and assorted mysterious figures seems frozen in time – and in some ways it is. You may find that initially the exotic sights and distinctive smells of the Medina overwhelm you, but a couple of hours are usually all you need to adapt. The biggest draws in the northern section of the Old City are the Jemaa el Fna and the souks, as well as historic sights such as the Koutoubia Mosque and the stunning Ben Youssef Medersa. Of course, one of the most memorable adventures can be yours by simply surrendering yourself to the vicissitudes of the maze. Strolling down nameless street after nameless street (the locals will soon let you know if you’ve wandered somewhere you shouldn’t), you can discover unique ways of life that will leave a permanent impression on your imagination.

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It’s here in the Medina that the riad boom began – intimate conversions of traditional homes with picturesque courtyards, run as maisons d’hote.

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Riads offer a particular kind of tranquillity and refuge from the bustling alleyways and souks that is not found elsewhere in the city. There are several wonderful examples of these, notably Riad Farnatchi, Riad el Fenn and Riad Tchaikana. The Medina’s policy regarding alcohol is not as relaxed as elsewhere in Marrakech, since it is the Old City and home to some of the most important mosques. Here alcohol can only be found in the hotel bars (in the Jardins de la Koutoubia and the Mamounia, for example), or in restaurants. Speaking of restaurants, there are some fabulous places to visit, many of them set in beautiful old buildings, with gurgling fountains and tables covered in rose petals – opulence and romance are the bywords here. While you are in Marrakech, visits to Le Tobsil, Dar Moha or Dar Marjana are highly recommended. For many, the Medina’s greatest attraction are the souks. Row upon row of tiny stalls, clustered together along narrow twisting alleys, begin to fan out from the northern section of the Jemaa el Fna and never seem to stop. Shopping in the souks is one of the most quintessential Marrakech activities, although those without much experience would do well to practise their haggling skills beforehand.

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The southern half of the Medina is slightly calmer than the north. While there are still twisting derbs and winding alleyways, the workshops and souks are less apparent while the residential areas are more so; seemingly, this area is the more affluent. Like the north, however, it is filled with interesting sights and sounds. The Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs, the Royal Palace and the Agdal Gardens draw those interested in the history and architecture of the city. Then there’s the Koutoubia, visible from virtually all parts the city, and the convenient meeting-place and non-stop circus that is the Jemaa el Fna. Some of Marrakech’s finest riads and hotels are found here in the south, including the legendary Mamounia hotel, the luxurious Villa des Orangers, the elegant Dar les Cigognes and the eclectic Riad Dyor. They epitomize the style and design with which the city has become synonymous, and are dedicated to contemplation and relaxation. The contrast between life inside and outside the Medina is palpable. Within the walls of the Old City, time stands still. Donkeys are still as common as motorbikes, butchers and vendors sell their wares on the dusty streets, and artisans busy themselves with traditional crafts. Indulging in a hammam/gommage is a must for all visitors to Marrakech. A weekly cleansing ritual for locals, many of whom live without showers and baths in their homes, is essential for personal hygiene. The local hammams can be daunting for strangers at first, but people are incredibly welcoming and there is always someone to guide you through the process if you are unsure. If you prefer luxury and pampering over local experience, head for the Bains de Marrakech – an upmarket spa annexed to the wonderful Riad Mehdi. This is a great place to rejuvenate and de-stress. There are plenty of restaurants in this lower half of the Medina, such as the wonderfully traditional Dar Zellij, and of course the funky Koz’i Bar, which serves up fabulous sushi. Alternatively, perhaps you would like to learn how to cook some tasty Moroccan food for yourself? If so, Souk Cuisine offers simple but memorable cooking classes in the heart of the southern Medina. When should you go? Avoid the summer at all costs, unless feeling like a roast chicken is really your thing. Spring and autumn are the best times to go – the temperature’s idyllic and unlike the UK or the US there’s very little chance of rain. Christmas can be a little cold – but there’s always something about a log fire that gets our pulses racing.


Gueliz – the New City – was constructed in 1913, soon after the French took power. The broad, European-style avenues and boulevards convey a sense of space, order and cleanliness a world away from the intricate, odorous chaos of the Medina. This very Westernized quarter – which borders Hivernage, ostensibly an extension of Gueliz – is home to the business community. Alongside the financial institutions, post offices and other economic franchises, however, is an attractive array of restaurants, bars, galleries and clubs. Much of the city’s nightlife is located in this area, since the licensing restrictions are much more relaxed here than they are in the Medina. Local drinking spots include chill-out bar Le Lounge, Le Comptoir, Montecristo and the opulent Jad Mahal. It’s also a short taxi ride from these bars to nightclubs such as VIP, Diamant Doir, Paradise and Theatro, where you can party on until 4am. Gueliz/Hivernage is also home to some of the city’s best restaurants, caf?s and art galleries. The restaurant scene is particularly vibrant: dinner at the opulent Jad Mahal is an exercise in style and people-watching, while Lolo Quoi, Kech Mara or El Fassia offer fantastic food in unique surroundings.

There are plenty of shopping options too – for hipsters and traditionalists alike – and strolling casually along Mohammed V and its various arteries can provide pleasant respite from the intensity of the souks. Galleries in the area show new Moroccan art, clothes designers put contemporary twists on traditional styles, and furniture and antique stores allow you to realize your vision of your very own riad interior once you get home. Although there’s not much here for the sightseer, it’s perfectly possible to spend a memorable day or evening (or both) in Gueliz, taking a sophisticated breakfast at the Grand Cafe de la Poste or the Cafe du Livre (or more traditional fare at Les Negociants), visiting the Majorelle Gardens, or the central market (March? Central) and then heading to one of the many restaurants, bars or clubs come night-time. A petit taxi between the Medina and Gueliz costs around 10dh and takes around 5 minutes.


A 15-minute drive outside the old city, La Palmeraie is famous for its eponymous palm trees and for the wealth of luxury accommodation (public and private) that exists here. A dusty and arid suburb of Marrakech, it has evolved organically and somewhat haphazardly. It is home to spacious hotel complexes, including some wonderfully opulent oases of decadence, and some of the finest golf courses that Morocco has to offer. The standard of accommodation available here makes La Palmeraie an attractive option for those wishing to be close to Gueliz and the Medina yet at the same time a million miles away. The ramshackle, old-world charm of places such as Ayniwen offer exclusivity and privacy, while catering for your every whim. Alternatively, there’s the unparalleled luxury of Jnane Tamsna and Dar Zemora, both of which offer stunning gardens, azure pools and an air of exotic refinement. The Palmeraie Golf Palace is also located here. Not only does it have an excellent golf course and a good riding stable, but it is also boasts the Uber-chic Nikki Beach. Other challenging golf courses can be found at Amelkis and the Royal Golf Club, which host national and international tournaments. Another recent addition to the ever-growing list of Palmeraie addresses is the stunning Beldi Country Club, an enchanting spot that has a cafe, restaurant, pool and artisan workshop all in one place. Unless you’re staying here, fancy a round of golf, or want to spend an afternoon at Nikki Beach or the Beldi, there’s little reason to visit La Palmeraie. If you can manage just one of these, however, you won’t leave disappointed.


UK visitors to Morocco require a passport valid for more than six months from the date of arrival. Visas are not required for UK citizens.

Precautions against hepatitis A, typhoid and polio recommended. Please consult your GP for details.

Dirham (MAD) = 100 centimes. Traveller’s cheques and most foreign currencies can be exchanged through authorised dealers. Sterling is the most widely used currency, credit cards are widely accepted and ATM machines are common in urban areas.

The northern coast has a Mediterranean climate with hot, humid Summers and mild, damp Winters.Furtehr south the temperatures rise, although Winter nights can be cool. Snowfall can be heavy in the Atlas mountains.

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